The El's nachos solamente: individually composed with thin layers of refried black beans, asadero cheese, fresh jalapeño chiles, pico de gallo and the counterintuitive ingredient that puts them over the top: a cool sharp grace note of cilantro ranch dressing.
Roegels sails high on Houston's rising barbecue tide
Seeing Shiva Patel juicing behind the counter, then tending the breads going into the wood oven while her husband filled in on cocktail duty for a missing bartender, I felt almost philosophical about the ponderous "Oporto Fooding House & Wine" name that made my eyes roll when I first heard it.
Gusto Gourmet, where Venezuela meets Mideast
Middle Eastern flatbread rolled around classic Venezuelan shredded beef, sweet-plantain chunks, black beans and sesame tahini?
Cubed avocado added a bit of welcome richness, and a welter of tiny, glassy kelp noodles contributed a poppy, near-subliminal crunch that marches up your cranial bones when you bite down. About True Food's organic produce: they are central to Weil's philosophy, which is not so much diet in the pop-culture sense as a sensible eating plan that shuns processed foods, rather than eliminating whole categories of food.
Part of Vallone's genius was to make Houstonians feel that the world was at their feet at a time when the city was increasingly staking its claim on a national and international stage. Nothing was too much trouble.
David Chang, the impossibly famous New York chef who founded the Momofuku empire, was sitting at my dinner table Monday night, dressed in a Houston Astros T-shirt. It was the kind of unexpected meeting that helps to draw more than 30,000 people together each spring for the Interactive portion of South by Southwest, the Austin music, film and digital festival. Anyway. There was Chang, parked between Jonathan Gold - the Pulitzer prize-winning restaurant critic from the Los Angeles Times - and…